Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
